Following me to exploring Beauty of Sapa( so-called the Queen of Mountains) or the
fanciful town in fog is located in a beautiful valley where lofty mountains
tower over the town on all sides. This is the destination in Northwest Vietnam
and a gateway to another world of mysterious minority cultures and luscious
landscapes.
The
spectacular scenery that surrounds Sapa includes cascading rice terraces that
spill down the mountains like a patchwork quilt. The mountains are often
shrouded in mist that rolls back and forth along the peaks, offering
tantalizing glimpses of what lies in wait on a clear day.
The
valleys and villages around Sapa are home to a host of hill-tribe people who
wander in to town to buy, sell and trade.
Sapa
is a former hill station built in 1922. The old hotels built by the French were
allowed to fall into disrepair and Sapa was forgotten by all but a handful of
residents.
With
the advent of tourism, Sapa has experienced a renaissance. Bad roads have been
upgraded, many streets have been given names, countless new hotels have popped
up, the electricity supply is reliable and the food has improved immeasurably.
Inherent
in all of this prosperity is cultural change for the Montagnards, many of whom
are now well versed in the ways of the cash economy and are reaping the
financial rewards of the tourism influx. The downside is a building boom that
has seen one hotel after another raise the roof in a continual quest for better
views. Height restrictions are rarely enforced and the Sapa skyline is changing
for the worse.
Not
only is it cold (like 0°C), but winter brings fog and drizzle. Quite why the
French alighted on this spot is difficult to comprehend: it must have been one
of those rare clear days when the views are to die for. The chilly climate does
have its advantages, however. The area boasts temperate-zone fruit trees
bearing peaches and plums, and gardens for raising medicinal herbs.
The
dry season in Sapa lasts from around January to June. January and February are
the coldest (and foggiest) months. From March to May the weather is often
excellent, and the summer is warm despite the rains between June and August.
The window from September to mid-December is a rewarding time to be in Sapa,
though there is a bit of lingering rain at the start and the temperature dips
by December.
Sapa
would be of considerably less interest without the H’mong and Dzao people, the
largest ethnic groups in the region. The billowing red headdresses of the Red
Dzao are visible all over town, a surreal sight amid the accelerating development.
The H’mong are more numerous and canny traders. Their villages may look
medieval but most will have a mobile phone and an email address to stay in
touch. Traditionally, they were the poorest of the poor, but have rapidly
learnt the spirit of free enterprise. Most of the Montagnards have had little
formal education and are illiterate, yet all the youngsters have a good command
of English, French and a handful of other languages.
If
possible, try to visit during the week, when Sapa is less crowded and more
intimate. Crowds flock to Sapa for the Saturday market, but a smaller market is
held every day. There is plenty to see on weekdays, and there are lots of
interesting villages within walking distance of the centre.
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